Monday, August 16

Ferocious Falafel - A Rare Beast

Hamburg, like most German cities, has almost more döner (Kebab) shops than New York city has Starbucks. The döner is to the Germans like the burrito is to Americans (USA), and so I am a believer in its underlying science. It is wrapped in a thin pita layer to keep the fingers clean and force the juicy pressed meat, crunchy onions and lettuce, sour and spicy white and red sauce (and a pickle if you are lucky) into an unlikely but harmonious dance. It is eaten at all times of day but only fully appreciated late at night. There are good döner shops and bad, and one can make a fairly accurate judgment based on the look of the meat sweating on the rotisserie. Okay! I get it. The döner is king here. But, can we even speak about him without mentioning his equally robust counter-part, the Falafel?
I could count the number of notable falafel experiences I have had in Hamburg on one hand, but today was a special day. I discovered Azeitona, an oriental vegetarian and international restaurant with a number of middle eastern dishes. Though I cannot speak for the rest of the extensive menu, I can highly recommend the Falafel Spezial (Falafel sandwich plus one of the other sides and hummus and lettuce). The sides, which include hummus and tabouli, a rare treat here), all look hearty and fresh and most importantly the falafel is freshly fried, krunchy on the outside and warm and soft on the inside. 

The small restaurant is hidden away behind scaffolding on Beckstrasse near Neuer Pferdemarkt. Vibrant paintings hang from the walls and and the benches are covered with pieces of Persian rugs. In the back room you can take off your shoes and sit at a low table without chairs drinking coffee and tea for hours at a time and shooting the shit with friends. 

Yay Falafel!

Tuesday, August 10

StrandPauli

The boardwalk takes you through a rusted iron gate, past a standing row-boat bench and over-sized wooden sofas and right up to a thatch-roofed bar.You are somewhere in the Americas on the Pacific, where orange lanterns swing and hop softly in the trees and you are free to take off your shoes and dig your toes into sand. Tango music nurtures a vague sense of urgency and mystery as couples move like puppets to its rhythmic heart-like beats. You order a Caipirinha and sit in a basket chair hanging from the thatch-roofed bar, letting your legs dangle. As the sky darkens and the wind grows stronger, feistier, you find a seat by one of the bonfires and let the smokey aromas seep into your hair and clothes.

You have found Strandpauli, a charming beach bar on the Elbe, on a Tango Tuesday night. There is no entrance fee even though restaurants on the Elbe are typically pretty pricey. You can get a beer here for as little as 2.50 Euros. If you are hungry, they also offer snacks and typical bar food like pizza and burgers. You order at the bar and then make your way over to the 'Burger' sign, which looks oddly like the Burger King sign stripped of its King, to pick up your eats.

Strandpauli is a great little escape from the city, stirring memories of the tropics and mixing them with a view of freighters and Hamburg's shipping docks. The live music schedule is posted on the website. Make plans to go soon because Strandpauli closes for the winter!